STEP 2
materials processing
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Fabric production and material processing is a step in the life cycle of a garment that consumes a significant amount of energy. In this stage, the raw material described above is turned into a fabric. For fibres, this means turning it into a yarn, and then either weaving or knitting it. A lot of fibres can also be non-woven, or in the case of leathers, this step is completely different.
According to Life Cycle Assessment experts Ecochain, almost 10% of the impact of the apparel industry occurs by producing the fabric, which is made in fabric mills. These are extremely large factories with gigantic machinery that often run for 24 hours, which is why the sustainability of spinning and weaving is very connected to the type of energy that is used and where the factory is located.
Renewable energy sources are the best option for large fabric mills that require a lot of energy.
Hydro and wind power can produce large amounts of energy, however they require large scale installation (and initial investment), which should be made available to mills by energy companies or government help. Manufacturers have started installing solar panels on their roofs that fit very well in the countries that produce a lot of the world’s textiles: India, Egypt, Pakistan, Turkey. The issue with solar is that it often requires more space than just the roof of a mill.
You can find a great comparison of different energy sources here, and our article on Solutions for Fossil Free Energy in Fashion.
Fabric Production from Fibres ⤵
Spinning Natural Fibres
Remember natural fibres? These include cotton, hemp, linen, flax, and kapok. The same process is used for wool.
Natural fibres undergo a thorough cleaning to remove any impurities such as sticks, seeds, and leaves. This involves separating the fibre from its source, a process that varies across different types of fibres. Once purified, the fibres are spun into yarns. These yarns are then woven into fabrics, at which point additional fibres like Tencel, Refibra, or bio-based stretch materials may be incorporated.
A lot of material can get lost during this stage, but most mills have vacuum-like machines that will suck up all the lost fibres during the process and recycle them back into their feedstock. fibre is like gold, it cannot be wasted!
Ring Spun vs. Open End Spinning:
+ Ring-spun yarn is made by twisting the cotton strands to make a very fine, strong, soft rope of cotton fibres. Ring-spun yarn is more durable than open end yarn and generally more expensive.
+ Open-end spinning, on the other hand, is a system of spinning where the yarn is twisted by rotating at the hap or break in the flow (the fibres wrap around the yarn vs spinning one long piece of yarn).
Extruding Synthetic Fibres
Unlike their natural counterparts, synthetic fibres begin as chemical solutions derived primarily from petrochemicals. This process, known as extrusion, transforms these solutions into the countless synthetic fibres that populate our wardrobes and homes.
The creation of synthetic fibres is a fascinating journey from raw material to textiles. Unlike their natural counterparts, synthetic fibres begin as chemical solutions derived primarily from petrochemicals. This process, known as extrusion, transforms these solutions into the countless synthetic fibres that populate our wardrobes and homes.
+ Melting or Dissolving: The first step in extruding synthetic fibres involves melting or dissolving the polymer. For example, nylon and polyester are melted, whereas acrylics might be dissolved in a solvent to create a thick solution.
+ Spinning: Once in liquid form, the polymer solution is forced through a spinneret—think of a honey-like substance going through a showerhead with multiple tiny holes. As the solution extrudes through these holes, it forms long, continuous filaments.
+ Cooling and Solidifying: The emerging filaments are then cooled, either by air or water, causing them to solidify into fine threads.
+ Drawing: To enhance their strength and elasticity, the solidified fibres are stretched, or "drawn," which aligns the polymer molecules within the fibres. This process can increase the fibre's strength significantly.
+ Texturing: Synthetic fibres are often texturized to give them certain characteristics, such as the soft hand of natural fibres or specific performance qualities. Texturing can create fibres that mimic the feel of cotton, wool, or silk.